Upgraded W7 to W10 on several machines with no problems.
WHS 2011 running backups on solo W10 and multiple boot systems, no problems.
Gateway DX4320. Launchpad reported the server offline.
Uninstalled/reinstalled WHS Homeserver client several times.
Each time client installed normally.
On reBoot, LaunchPad and DashBoard report server is OFFLINE.
We are well into the UpGrade. I should have all the UpDates.
Request simple instructions if you have a fix.
I recently had a problem with WHS2011 saying that the domain could not be updated.
Its a Microsoft homeserver domain.
Turned out when I changed the password for OneDrive it broke RWA.
I have since fixed the issue by re-entering the changed password, but what I would really like to do is change the email address used as the username.
Can this be done without having to change the domain name as well?
You are very welcome. I definitely understand it, as my dad passed away last year.
As for the SuperMicro board, yeah, they're not cheap. But they're very much worth it. Especially for a dual socket board with a SAS hookup.
As for IPMI, the board may support Intel vPro/AMT, so you may not really lose out. Also, you *can* buy IPMI cards, IIRC.
As for the case, it's not a bad case, and lots of room in it.
As for the NSAS drive limit, it's more of a guideline, not an actual limit.
As for the quality of the drives, it really depends on how you're using them. I'm running a bunch of NAS drives and now a bunch of Seagate Archive drives. For the most part, the higher end stuff isn't necessary. But a longer warranty period is always better, IMO.
As for the drives, it's your choice. Though, the Seagate Archive drives have the best price ($30/TB). That's why I use them. That, and because they're massive. If you want to grab all WD Red drives, that's fine. But you shouldn't need to get the gold or higher end drives. They shouldn't be necessary, but may be worth it if you have the money.
As for the number, at least 2. Make sure that everything is duplicated. The problem with larger drives, is that if a single drive fails, more data is lost. That's the downside to them. But you can get more capacity in a smaller space. Which means less hate is generated, and less power consumed. So, it's really your choice.
Sorry, that I can't be any more help than that. Drive selection is really up to you.
Thanks for the words of condolence regarding my mom. It's pretty tough seeing her as sick as she is. While choosing parts for this build is driving me nuts, it's actually been a nice distraction at times.
And speaking of which!
I think I many have found the SuperMicro motherboard that fits my "Master Plan"! Of course, it costs about $150 more than I wanted to spend but it checks all the boxes on my "want" list: Dual processor; Broadwell-EP compatible; Windows 10 compatible; C612 chipset (10xSATA3); built-in SAS controller (8xSAS3); and standard size (E-ATX). About the only feature common on other boards missing is IPMI, and, that's not a big deal to me.
Because this motherboard is Broadwell-EP (E5-2600 v4) compatible, I can get the newer version of the lower priced processors and get 2 extra cores for the same price. I'm just going to get one processor to start with. It's between the E5-2603V4 (6 cores @ 1.7 GHz); the E5-2609V4 (8 cores @ 1.7 GHz); and the E5-2620V4 (8 cores w/HT @ 2.1 GHz).
I've decided to get a Corsair full tower case for the build. I'm looking at cases like the one I own already, the Corsair 730T (which is non-windowed version of their fancy 760T). These cases (the 750D, 760T, 780T--everyone's out of the 730T right now) all have a similar layout with 2 drive cages that will hold 3 3.5” drives each. All of these cases will take an additional 2 drive cages for a total of 12 3.5” drive bays. They also have 4 2.5” drive bays and 3 5.25” drive bays.
I describe the cases I'm looking at for a reason. Because this computer will ultimately have so many drives, I'm wondering which drives I should get. I'm partial to Western Digital so I've been looking at Reds and Red Pros (and now the new Golds which are similarly priced to the Red Pros). I'm partial to the Reds because they're cheaper. But, if I fill up this case with drives, I'll be “over the limit” with regards to the recommended number of drives they suggest per enclosure (8 for the regular Reds). That's why I'm also looking at the Red Pros and the Golds. Granted, I also like the higher specifications and the longer warranty, but, I just can't justify the price if it's not *necessary*. Which brings me to my question: Are the higher end drives necessary? Being the paranoid type, I was starting to think they *were* necessary. Then I saw your server specifications at the covecube forums where you have 20 “regular” NAS drives in a single enclosure. This leads me to believe starting off with regular Red drives is acceptable.
And while I'm on the subject of drives--and I know this is a somewhat arbitrary question: What size drives should I get? Like I originally mentioned: I'll be running Stablebit DrivePool w/duplication. I was thinking of getting 5 4TB WD Red drives for $750. That's $37.5/TB. Of course, 7 3TB WD Reds is $735 ($35/TB) for about the same amount of space. And then again, 3 6TB WD Reds is $720 ($40/TB), or 3 8TB WD Reds is $930 ($38.75/TB). So, it's all in about the same ballpark. I just don't know which direction I should go. Common sense tells me to get the 6 or 8 TB drives. The best/worst price difference is $5/TB. I'd have fewer points of failure, be using fewer ports and less electricity (even though the electricity isn't really significant at this point).
Any opinions/advice you have on any of this would be greatly appreciated.
I am having problems using the same user id on multiple devices at once. Seems to really mess up the server.
Is there an Add In that will let me see what user is logged in on what computer? Or is there a way to tell now? I would find that very helpful.
Also, being able to force log off a user from the console would be great. Is there a way to do that now?